Monster & Maker: A New Look at Pinotage
Radford Dale has clearly become fully committed to the grape, and is amongst the leaders of the small but important group of producers that are stressing the grape's connections to Burgundy and the south of France, rather than to the less appropriate model of Bordeaux which has dominated most Cape strivings with the grape.' – Tim James, Winemag
Last year, we celebrated 100 years of Pinotage, with the year 1925 marked as the year Professor Abraham Izak Perold planted those first seeds of cross-pollinated Pinot Noir and Hermitage (Cinsault).
There were other notable developments in 1925. Afrikaans became an official language of South Africa, Louis Armstrong made his first recordings with the Hot Five, Edwin Hubble presented findings of galaxies beyond the Milky Way, and the first television transmitter was created in London.
Roll on a century, and Pinotage has outlived its detractors. The varietal is not only still present, but better and more diverse in style than ever. For a varietal created through human intervention it’s a rare success story, occupying a little over 7% of the Cape vineyard today.
I am a particular fan of the “postmodern” Pinotage bottlings that have emerged over the last decade, placing emphasis on varietal lineage. The good ones sit neatly among an upswell of red wines that champion finesse, freshness and a sense of place. It is a category of red wine where South Africa is excelling on the international stage, and one we champion in the wines at Radford Dale.
The Radford Dale Vinum Pinotage is a case in point. First produced in the 2018 vintage, our goal is to shed new light on the varietal. At R 199 per bottle, the latest 2024 release overdelivers in spades.
Vinum 2024: “Excellent balance and freshness and one of the purest and best-balanced Pinotages I have tasted.” 17/20 - Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com
----------
Radford Dale Frankenstein Pinotage 2023 – R 499
First bottled in 2011, the Radford Dale Frankenstein could lay claim to being the first postmodern expression of Pinotage. It’s produced from a special parcel planted in 1989 on the lower slopes of the Helderberg. A parcel distinguished from the rest of the vineyard by the white clay patch of soil these gnarly bush vines strike out of. They produce low yields of small berries with a high skin-to-juice ratio, and a wine that requires little dressing up.
Frankenstein 2023: “You couldn’t get anything less Frankenstein than this understated, translucent Pinotage clocking in at just 12%... Sweet and soft and autumnal – if ever a Pinotage yearned towards its Pinot parent, it’s this one.” 17/20 - Tamlyn Currin, JancisRobinson.com
The name
The name Frankenstein is a playful nod to the novel of Mary Shelley and the tale of the creator Dr. Frankenstein and the monster. If you’ve read the novel or watched the latest and faithful movie adaption in 2025 (it’s brilliant), then you’ll know there is a great deal of complexity and empathy applied to the monster. It is far from the green skinned, flat topped and inarticulate creature commonly depicted.
Shelley’s monster is intelligent, rapidly self-learning, deeply sensitive and complex. Ultimately, its course is fated, abandoned by its creator and feared on sight by others. That rejection and resentment leading it to commit atrocities.
Cue parallels to Professor Perold, Pinotage and induced coffee flavours…
“Despite a modest alcohol of just 12%, the palate has surprising breadth, balanced by vibrant freshness and powdery tannins. It’s a little unbridled, but undeniably compelling.” 93/100 - Christian Eedes, WineMag
Approx 400 cases produced in select vintages.
-------
Radford Dale Vinum Pinotage 2024 – R 199
In the 2018 vintage, Frankenstein was joined by the Radford Dale Vinum Pinotage. Given the limitation of vineyard sourcing Frankenstein, the Vinum is an important addition – accessibly priced, and with enough production to serve by the glass in a few good markets.
Once again, the vineyard source is top tier, here combining a mature block in northern Stellenbosch with a stunning grower site on the Paardeberg, Swartland.
The conditions of 2024 were something of a joy in the vineyard – healthy fruit, even ripening - which has translated through to bottle. It is a particularly successful vintage for early ripening red varietals and the early pickers, the wines typically show a little more colour and flesh than the preceding 2023, and are packed with vibrant, primary fruit and a certain ease to the tannin profile.
“Very much in the New Wave idiom yet retains impressive substance and complexity.” 94/100 - Christian Eedes, WineMag
“This is delicious and massively drinkable, and doesn’t taste much like Pinotage of old, which is a good thing.” 93/100 - Jamie Goode, Wine Anorak
The Method: Working with the “Monster”
The Frankenstein and Vinum share a commonality in approach: the employment of whole-berry fermentation (varying on wine and vintage), a method made famous by the great wines of Cru Beaujolais.
The method uplifts varietal fruit expression, aromatics and contributes a cerebral texture. It also allows for an earlier pick of Pinotage, for a balanced or restrained alcohol. This is handy, for Pinotage is a varietal notorious for early ripening, building sugars (alcohol) quickly and often out of sync with the skin and tannin development.
Employing the use of whole berries, imparts a natural and intercellular ferment, extracting from the inside of the grape skin and bypassing the often tricky and unresolved exterior. After alcoholic fermentation is complete, a soft and meticulous basket press is employed. It allows us to produce a refreshing style Pinotage and avoid hot alcohol levels that can plague the varietal.
Browse all available Radford Dale wines here.
